I am going to send you some training exercises you can use to help make your walks or outings a bit more peaceful. Best of luck training, The walk should start with her having to exit your home very calmly, performing obedience commands at the door if she isn't calm. It helps to see your dogâs behavior for what it most likely is: fear vs. disobedience. Once your dog has mastered all of the above steps, move on to small groups. Hello Carol, Tell your dog "watch me" every time you see another dog approaching. quickly your pup will calm down and back off.Â. Make sure you have two different types of treats. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omg5DVPWIWo One option you have is to train your German Shepherd to stop the bad behavior by using positive reinforcement training. I recommend working on calmness and more socialization. Hi, Loki has fantastic recall - providing there are no other dogs around. You will see a significant change in his behavior after a month of consistent practice. If Bonnie is just excited and distracted around other dogs, but you have no reason to believe that she is at all aggressive, then I suggest enrolling in a leashed obedience class with her. Read over all the methods, but pay special attention to the Working method: This part is hard for humans â I understand. Check out the article that I have linked below and follow the "Reel In" method. And this will be either continuing your walk, or being allowed to interact with the other dog. If you have a back yard, I usually suggest giving them a space to dig. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=98dt9Uqu-Ds https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcwvUOf5oOg Focus on training and not just getting somewhere or having the walk go perfectly for a while. Dogs learn by making associations, and you want your dog to associate other dogs with pleasant things â never punishment. Actually, it's all too easy to misuse the 'come' command and teach the wrong message. The information from the two articles above if practiced consistently is often enough for most dogs to learn to come reliably but a few dogs need further training. Ignore any hysterics for now, but back up and create more space if your dog is unwilling to eat. The walk should start with him having to exit your home very calmly, performing obedience commands at the door if he isn't calm. If your dog already has a big fat history of getting reinforced for pulling toward other dogs, you may initially need to practice at off-peak times or in less congested places. Also, teach him what "Quiet" means. No name calling, no treats will get her attention. He'll form a bond with you (the trainer). This is scary when I have her off leash for fetch and another dog comes near. That position decreases his arousal, reduces stress because he isn't the one in charge and the one encountering things first. It prevents him from scanning for other dogs, staring dogs down or being stared down, and ignoring you behind him. We want your dog to predict that other dogs near him means that YUMMY FOOD will appear! We are trying to avoid him barking in other instances, like at home (we keep the blinds closed so he can't bark at dogs passing by). Once pup is responding consistently at that distance around various dogs over several sessions, begin to gradually decrease how close you practice around other dogs, like 2 feet closer, 5 feet closer, ect...Until pup can pass right by another dog while heeling. Passing Approach and Walking Together methods - start with the Passing Approach method until pup can be calmer. Don’t worry, most dog owners have been there, you’re not alone. She should wait for permission ("Okay" or "Free" or "Let's Go") before going through the door instead of bolting through if that's an issue. From a safe distance â your dog determines the distance, not you â have your leashed dog view another dog. Whoever else walks Winnie and has issues should practice along with you to instill listening and obeying. Which is a class for dog reactive/aggressive dogs, who all wear basket muzzles and are socialized together in a structured environment under the supervision and instruction of the class trainer. It sounds that that behavior might be something the other dogs did at her home, or perhaps one was bullied for the weekend (or got away with being a bully) so now they are up reacting to other dogs. Look for someone who specializes in aggression, comes well recommended by previous clients who dealt with dog aggression in their pups, and has access to other well-mannered dogs to practice practice training exercises around. Agility obstacles, whether through a class or just agility type obstacles you make at home, can be a good way to build confidence in a dog too. Your end goal is for your dog to see another dog, and remain calm, looking at you for guidance. We recently rescued a very sweet and energetic girl. When pup's body language stays calm, they remain focused on you, or are very obedient when other dogs are within sight, reward pup with a treat and very calm - almost monotone praise (too much excitement can make the situation harder for pup). It is important to know the root of the problem because it can be demonstrating dominance, fear or marking its territory. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bark The aim is have the dog only... 2. When pup is doing well around other dogs. The hemp treats can be a useful tool in training your dog to ignore other dogs by simply feeding it to them before you go on a walk or go somewhere where there are likely to be other dogs around. There needs to be more structure on your walk, more respect for you, the right tools to make managing his size easier, corrections for early signs of aggression - but this needs to be done by someone who is very experienced doing it or it could result in the walker potentially being bitten. Remind him with a fair correction that you are leading the walk and he is not allowed to break his heel or stare another dog down. She also jumps on stangers and bolts out the door as soon as its opened she knows some basic commands but will not do them without being treated she also just chews things in generel i need help, Hello Mercedies, Rushing can make it worse. Any methods to help? What can I do. Because his aggression is likely not fear-based, you will need a trainer that knows how to deal with non-fear based aggression (many trainers only work with fear-based aggression, which is treated a bit differently than other types of aggression). Some dogs bark for good reasons, such as at strangers, while others apparently bark for little or no reason at all. How does he do when greeting dogs in person? Note: I have since discontinued using the hemp treats on my dogs because their behaviors have improved phenomenally when it comes to being around other dogs. He should walk right beside you in the heel location, with his nose at or behind your leg and not in front. Best of luck training, The first step is to reframe what an oncoming dog means to your dog. You know you have made great progress when your dog sees another dog, and he turns his head away from the once-threatening dog and looks into your eyes, expecting a treat. She should wait for permission ("Okay" or "Free" or "Let's Go") before going through the door instead of bolting through if that's an issue. Methods that only punish a dog for reacting or only reward a dog tend not to work well when its just one extreme or the other, and not the dog stopping the bad behavior AND learning something better instead. Rather than give him a full treat at once, continuously feed him small bits of treats the entire time that he sees, but not does react to, the other dog. First, know that a dog can be aggressive toward strange dogs even if they are fine with dogs they know well - that doesn't mean that he is, but just to be aware. The training combined with obedience work like heel should wear him out. After many repetitions, your dog should understand the meaning of the cue. You don't have to use food, a favourite toy of your dog's would be just as good if it's only produced for training purposes. When one puppy gets too rough the other puppy will yelp and stop playing with the rough puppy. Teach your dog to positively associate other dogs with rewards. I suggest that you be involved in the training process, but you want the trainer to have access to other dogs, starting with her own well trained dogs usually, for practice during sessions. It's all about practice. During this time, avoid any punishment for reactivity. I also suggest working on the structure of your walk. Check out the videos linked below. You need to hire a professional trainer to help you in person right away. Purchase a long leash and work with each dog one at a time on recall, Down-Stay, Sit-Stay, heeling, Watch Me, and following you with the long leash slack around other dogs. Suddenly, up ahead another person is coming your way with their pup. Your dog can sense this and shall behave in the same manner. When pup's body language stays calm, they remain focused on you, or are very obedient when other dogs are within sight, reward pup with a treat and very calm - almost monotone praise (too much excitement can make the situation harder for pup). The reason this method works so well is because it will immediately signal to your dog that whatever they just did was a displeasing action to you. Practice the Turns method from the article linked below. That position decreases his arousal, reduces stress because he isn't the one in charge and the one encountering things first. That can help ultimately. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel He should wait for permission ("Okay" or "Free" or "Let's Go") before going through the door instead of bolting through if that's an issue. Consider not walking your dog for 30 days as you reprogram her opinions of other dogs. Those classes are for dog reactive/aggressive dogs, who all wear basket muzzles (more comfortable) and are intensively socialized together in a structured environment. Leave It: The obedience commands, correction done correctly, and the rewards for focus on you and calm behavior all go together...If you only correct, then you likely won't see long term improvement. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Caitlin Crittenden. Hello Alicia, With the dogs in the background, practice her obedience. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Over time, by practicing âleave it,â your dog should stop pulling as soon as you give the cue. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-poodle-to-heel Pup doesn't need to meet any of the dogs during this time, just to see them nearby. short leash your dog, a firm pull, not jerking, and a firm no, will soon train your dog to walk normally and not to lunge at the other dogs. Many trainer will be willing to evaluate her beforehand to see what class is or isn't appropriate for her. When you walk she should be in the heel position - with her head behind your leg. If not, you have to start there. If pup has drawn blood with other dogs, this is especially something I recommend hiring a professional trainer to help in person with. Instead, sit on your front porch or in your garage with your dog on leash, and practice treating every time another dog comes into your dogâs line of sight. When the other dog is out of your dogâs view, all treats stop. To start with other obedience commands, take a look here: https://wagwalking.com/training/obedience-train-a-great-dane. How To Train Your Dog To Ignore Other Dogs. Interested in the different ways to train your puppy? Ignore any hysterics for now, but back up and create more space if your dog is unwilling to eat. Best of luck training, He is simply too aroused to respond to your cues at this point. Don't allow them to go up to the dogs. After being around other dogs and getting used to seeing them and interacting with them regularly then it should become an easier task for your dog to learn to ignore other dogs when you guys are out and about. She has a few behavioral which are being worked on but the biggest one would have to be that she barks a lot. After she knows what "Quiet" means, when she stays quiet and doesn't bark at all, reward her with a treat. That class will work on teaching dogs to ignore other dogs and people and act calmly while out in public. Doing activities like a structured heel in group walks and hikes are also good once pup can handle being close enough for that type of activity. Most dogs will lunge or rush at other dogs, bark and growl extremely aggressively, or just freeze and give that other dog “the look”. Runs up on dogs.. barks and jumps when she sees other dogs outside, Hello Shawn, THE NUDGE METHOD Take your dog out for a walk. It is also good to teach Coco the out command so that you can remove her from the situation when she gets too rough. Repeat this training each time you see another dog on your walks. Staying in a calmer mindset also makes the walk more pleasant for him in the long-run. You want your dog to learn that the appearance of the stimulus leads to good things (treats)! Meetup.com sometimes has local dog walking groups. Come: Someone who is a multi-millionaire that owns a fleet of luxury cars and fancy watches and other nice things will show very little curiosity when they see other objects that are not particularly uncommon for them to see. In addition to that, I recommend teaching Place and working up to pup being able to stay on place for 1 hour even around distractions - this will take a lot of repetition and very gradually adding in more distractions and time as pup improves. You can also play a game to teach the dog to remain calm and to ignore other dogs. Look for someone who comes well recommended and specifically has experience with behavior issues like aggression - not all trainers specialize in aggression. Thresholds: Finally, check out instagram and facebook for service dog training groups. Hello Sophia, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJTucFnmAbw&list=PLXtcKXk-QWojGYcl1NCg5UA5geEnmpx4a&index=6&t=0s – Strange Reasons May Shock. Heel article - The turns method: Once the dog is calmer, then he needs to be desensitized around the other dog and rewarded for being tolerant and calm around them, so that the dog becomes not a big deal - especially if he doesn't do well with other dogs either. Good luck! Do things like joining obedience classes, trainings clubs, group dog hikes and walks, canine sports, ect...Your goal right now should be interactions with other dogs that have structure and encourage focus on you, calmness around the other dogs, and a pleasant activity with other dogs around - opposed to roughhousing or tense environments with tons of unpredictable dogs loose which increases adrenaline (no dog parks even once pup is better around other dogs). But at the same time, you can train an older dog to behave on walks, it might just take a little more time. We got stuck where we couldn't move any closer without a reaction. Its because she gets too excited to say hi and it turns to frustration. At least to start with find out what your dogs love is and help them develop this, what I am saying is work with your dog. Once your dog is looking at his (former) trigger and then looking expectantly up at you for a treat, you can begin to put this skill on cue. Best of luck training, Change factors to keep the training at the level Grimm is ready for, by staying further away, moving closer as he improves, having the other owners act calm or act silly, adding more or less people, and so forth. Remind her with a gentle correction that you are leading the walk and she is not allowed to break her heel or stare another dog down. Many puppy classes cut off the entrance age at five or six months, so I suggest that you find one as soon as possible and ask how the class is run and whether there is time for off-leash play and obedience practice. Your dog needs to learn new behaviors to quell her excitement. Coco will need a lot of exercise - hour long walks are ideal and this may help to burn energy so she plays well with others. His body language should tell a lot about why he is reacting the way he is. And it is the key to success. As they improve, you gradually increase the amount of distractions you practice around: Once your dog is looking at his (former) trigger and then looking expectantly up at you for a treat, you can begin to put this skill on cue. Their goal is to get you back home untouched. As you walk, remain calm and relaxed. Jumping - use the Step Toward method with those pup knows and the Leash method for guests. Heel article - The turns method: Olaff is reactive on the lead by lunging and jumping when he sees another dog (excitement). She is a very social dog. Hi (: My dog is a cross between a jcak Russel and a staffy. When they begin to follow you, praise and give a treat from your pocket (carry that baggie of treats in your pocket while out right now). He crys when he sees dogs, barks and lunges at kids, barks at some adults and loses focus around those distractions. Work on the Turns Method. "Whether your dog is new to you or not, a good way to set up a dog meet and greet is to go for a walk where they can stroll near each other." Click The Button Below To Learn More. Ignore any hysterics for now, but back up and create more space if your dog is unwilling to eat. Caitlin Crittenden. Getting your dog to ignore distractions and focus on you is crucial for owners. First, use the Reel in Method from the article linked below to work on teaching Come around distractions - this method uses a long leash and encourages practicing intentionally around distractions on the long leash - the leash lets you enforce your command. Start with the other dogs far enough away that he is only mildly distracted. Soon to be in the heel position - with his nose at or your. With each dog on your walks or outings a bit bottom line – it ’ s to! For you to instill listening and obeying by some friends ' dogs, I recommend practicing the following commands pup! 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